Final Project Site: Nome, Alaska

Geology:

A 1901 photo of a a survey geologist in Nome

Nome is located on the south coastal plain of the Seward Peninsula adjacent to Norton Sound, Bering Sea. It lies in the region of discontinuous permafrost. The coastal plain extends inland to the base of a series of hills and ridges that rise to 1,800 ft above sea level. The ridges are oriented predominantly north-south and separated by south-flowing primary drainages. A tundra plain extends back three to four miles form the shore. The Nome area was subjected to alpine glaciation during the Pleistocene Epoch.
(Hickel, Walter J. Olds, Glenn A. Smith, Thomas E. State of Alaska Department of Natural Resources Division of Geological and Geophysical Surveys. July 1992)








The region consists of Quaternary coastal and glacial sand and gravel deposits. The sands are re-worked clastics derived form Paleozoic sedimentary and metasedimentary rocks that form the highlands of Anvil Mountain and North Newton Peak north of Nome. At various undisturbed locations, surface water collects above the shallow permafrost and has contributed to the wet tundra and wet near-surface conditions.



Gold Rush 1898-1909:

"Three Lucky Swedes"

Most of the credit for the Nome gold rush goes to John Byrnteson, Erik Lindblom, and Jafet Lindeberg, who became know as the “The Three Lucky Swedes”. In 1989, weather had driven their ship into the mouth of the Snake River. They found a little bit of gold in Anvil Creek but nothing to get too excited about. They staked out 43 claims between them and another 47 for friends and relatives. Word got out that they had done this and a huge amount of gold seekers came to Nome, unaware that there was not a significant amount of gold found yet. However, someone decided to start panning on the beach and discovered large amounts of gold stretching 40 miles along the water line in either direction of Nome. By 1899, gold seekers were coming to the tent town and during that summer alone, more than 2 million dollars worth of gold was taken from the beaches.

Tents, boats, and people in Nome 1899

Nome’s population increased from a few to 28,000 people. Troops from Fort St. Michael across Norton Sound had to come to maintain order. Nome was easier to reach than the gold fields of Interior Alaska. There were no mountains and advertisements led many to think they could pick up nuggets off the beach with little or no work. Hundreds of tents extended for 15 miles along the beach.

Elizabeth Robins

When Elizabeth Robins, a British newspaper correspondent and actress, arrived in Nome, she described the scene on the beach:

The tents come down the shingle in some cases within a few feet of where surf is breaking.

The space remaining is already piled with freight--food supplies barrels of beer and whiskey, bags of beans and flour higher than my head, lumber, acres of it, extending beyond the tents and up on the tundra, furniture, bedding, pots and pans, engines and boilers, Klondike Thawers, centrifugal pumps, pipe and hose-fittings, gold rockers, sides of bacon, blankets, smart portmanteaux and ancient sea chests--as odd a conglomeration as ever an eye rested on.

I thought this gave a great visual of what things looked like and what kind of things were going on in Nome at this time. 

Front St. Business Establishments Nome, AK ca. 1900

By 1905, Nome had schools, churches, and a newspaper. Among the variety of businesses were at least 20 drinking establishments, 16 lawyers, 11 physicians, 12 general merchandise stores, 4 real estate offices, 4 drug stores, 3 watchmakers, 3 fruit and cigar stores, 5 laundries, 4 bath houses, and one massage artist.










By 1909, the population had dropped to 2,600. The rush was over but mining for gold there still takes place today. Total gold production for the Nome district has been at least 3.6 million ounces.



The Natives had a major loss in this gold rush. Mining claims could only be staked by citizens and since Natives were considered to be uncivilized, they could not get citizenship. Because of the thousands of people coming to Nome, the number of moose and caribou as well as smaller game was drastically reduced. Mining also resulted in the destruction of salmon streams. Drinking and disease were also introduced to the Natives.

 I had the chance to meet someone in Nome who's family came to Nome for the Gold Rush. His name is Larry and he took me and my friends on an Arctic Cat ride out to Safety. His great grandparents came to Nome and staked claims. The claims are still in the family and he said they go out there every once in a while and do a little digging. He also said that he plans on staying out on the property more regularly and start up the whole process again on a small scale.













Serum Run 1925:

Dr. Curtis Welch

In December of 1924, the first diphtheria-like illness was reported in the Native village of Holy Cross. A 2 year old native boy died and his parents refused to do an autopsy. As a result, 3 more children in the same area died with similar symptoms. It was finally diagnosed as diphtheria in January of 1925, by Dr. Curtis Welch. He had the antitoxin but it was already 6 years old and non-effective. The disease was spreading fast and it promised to wipe out the entire city of Nome, with a population of less than 1,400, if the medicine didn’t arrive.








The only two choices of delivery were by plane or dog sled. The only bush planes available had open cockpits and water-cooled engines. Flying at fifty below was too big of a risk not only for the pilots, but for the serum as well. A vote was taken and the dogsled relay was unanimous. Only expert dogsled racers could make the journey because of the worst winter conditions they had since 1905. Mail carriers were chosen to deliver the serum because of their vast knowledge of the trail and expertise of traveling. All together there were twenty men and 150 dogs. The drivers would have to cover over 674 miles to deliver the serum to Nome. 

Route to Nome

A radio signal went out and carried for miles across the frozen tundra. Nome was urgently calling for a diphtheria serum. Seattle responded and said they had fresh serum and they had a plane standing by to fly to Nome. However, because of the bad winter weather, the plane wasn’t able to fly to Nome. Anchorage had received 300,000 units of serum. They would be able to transport the package to Nenana by the Alaska Railroad and then have a dog team take it the rest of the way. On January 27, the race to get the serum to Nome began.



All mushers had a hard time getting through the rough winter weather. The serum finally made it to Gunnar Kaasen who traveled the last leg of the race. The famous dog, Balto, was the lead dog. Kassen had made it to the last stop, Safety, and he found the next driver sleeping. He was only 21 miles outside of Nome and his dog team was running nicely so he decided to keep going to Nome.

Kaasen and Balto

February 2, 1925, Balto led Kaasen’s team into Nome. They became instant heroes across the United States. The 674 mile trip was made in 127.5 hours. The town of Nome was saved. It is not known for sure how many people died as a result of diphtheria in and around Nome. The official estimates range between five and seven. However, it is likely much higher since the native Inuits did not always report deaths.

This site gives a nice timeline of the events carried out.













WWII 1941:
Nome was home to an airfield during World War II. Thousands of aircraft, headed for the Western Front, landed in Nome where U.S. Aviators handed over the planes to Russian pilots to fly them through Siberia to fight the Nazis for the Lend-Lease Program.



The Lend-Lease Act of 1941 premitted the United States to lend or lease supplies to allies fighting aggression. Payment could be in kind, in property, or in any benefit accepted by the United States, and payment could be deferred to a later date.

Northwest Staging Route

The U.S. wanted the Soviet Union to continue to fight Germany on Germany’s Eastern Front. The U.S. sent equipment and supplies to the Soviet Allies. To deliver aircraft to the Soviet Union, the U.S. constructed the Northwest Staging Route, an air route over the Alaska Highway. Montana was the departure point for aircraft. The planes traveled from Great Falls to Alaska by the Ferrying Group of the Air Transport Command. The planes then went on to Fairbanks where the Soviets flew them to Marks Field in Nome. Marks Field is presently the Nome Airport. From Nome they flew them across the Bering Sea, over Siberia, and to the railhead at Krasnoyarsk.

Russian Military in Nome, AK

The Civil Aeronautics Administration began construction of the Nome airfield in 1941, and the Army soon assumed responsibility for what was called Marks Air Force Base. The intent of this was to protect the northwest coast of Alaska from attack by the  Japanese. Military planes based in Nome provided that protection throughout the war. At different times, B-18 and B-24D bombers and P-39F fighters provided the defense of Nome and northwest coast. Lend Lease became the main activity at Marks Field. Signs of military presence include the numerous Quonset huts.





Source:
Millbrook, Anne. Lend-Lease Air Route of World War II. Nome Convention and Visitors Bureau.




Iditarod 1970:

Joe Reddington

Joe Reddington, had deep historical interests in the Iditarod Trail since the 1950’s. He felt that this centennial race would help in their quest to preserve the historic gold rush and mail route and get it recognized nationally. Reddington had a vision for a long-distance sled dog race. Mushers, two of which were teachers, started to discuss how to make this race a reality. In 1973, the dream had finally come true. The U.S. Army helped clear portions of the trail and with the support of Nome Kennel Club, the race went all the way to Nome for the first time. The first winner of the Iditarod was Dick Wilmarth and it took him almost 3 weeks to finish.




Reddington had two main reasons for creating this race: to save the sled dog culture and Alaskan huskies, which were being phased out by snow machines; and to preserve the historical Iditarod Trail between Seward and Nome. The race is a reconstruction of the freight route to Nome and commemorates the part that sled dogs played in the settlement of Alaska. The checkpoints were set up along the trail for the mushers to stop at, much like the freight mushers did eighty years ago. The Iditarod is something that most of these villages look forward to all year.

Winner's Trophy

The Iditarod has become world famous. Mushers from all over the world come to participate. The race is run by volunteers who donate their time to do jobs such as security during the start and finish, dog handling, taking care of dogs that become injured during the race, working phones at the finish, working merchandise sales, working at the different checkpoints along the trail, securing the dog lot in Nome until the dogs are brought back to Anchorage, and setting up, working and clean up for the banquet at in Nome, among other volunteer opportunities. Volunteers come from all over the world to experience this great race.

Iditarod Trail

The trail is impassable during the spring, summer and fall and is far from straight. The race is a total of about 1,049 (the 49 being symbolic to the 49th state) miles and only about 650 miles by airplane. The trail was routed to wind through a number of towns and villages missed by the original trail. There is a northern route for even-numbered years and a southern route for odd numbered years.

Me and Dallas Seavey

The Iditarod just celebrated its 40th anniversary this year. The winner was Dallas Seavey who won the race in 9 days, 4 hours, and 29 minutes with an average speed of 4.37mph. He is the youngest Iditarod winner. I had the amazing opportunity to volunteer for the race in Anchorage and in Nome. To be able to mingle amongst the mushers and have conversations with them about what it’s like on the trail and how they take care of their dogs and to hear the passion they have for the race is absolutely amazing. The dogs are just as amazing as the mushers. They are such great athletes and are so happy and full of energy. I can’t wait to do it again.

Fuel Predicament: 2012

Redna and U.S. Coast Guard

Back in November of 2011, Nome was supposed to get their last deliver of fuel for the winter. However, because of an early storm this winter, the shipping lanes were frozen preventing the shipment of fuel to reach Nome. After November, the next scheduled delivery of fuel was not possible until March at the earliest. There was no way that Nome was going to be able to survive through the winter.



Ideas about possible ways to get Nome their much needed fuel began to surface. They talked about flying the fuel in but decided against it because they would only be able to fly in 5,000 gallons at a time when they needed over 1 million gallons.

Sitnasuak Native Corporation

They decided that their best option would be to use a fuel tanker. The Sitnasuak Native Corporation arranged for the delivery to be made by Russian fuel tanker, Renda. Sitnasuak owns Bonanza Fuel which is one of Nome's two fuel distributors. The Renda set out in mid-December and headed for South Korea to pick up diesel fuel and then stopped by Dutch Harbor to pick up some unleaded fuel.

Hoses used to transfer fuel

The United States Coast Guard Cutter Healy stayed ahead of the Renda using their icebreaker to clear a path. They had 300 miles to go from Dutch Harbor to Nome. Because of the thickness of the ice and the strong currents, they were only able to move about 20 miles a day. The Renda finally made it to about 700 yards from the storage tanks. The fuel was transferred through 2 hoses that ran from the Renda to the holding tanks. Nome was finally refueled and ready to make it through the rest of the winter.




 Extra:
This video was very interesting to watch. It has a lot of history and modern day Nome happenings and area villages. I was just there for the end of the Iditarod back in March. It was interesting to see what it looks like in the summer. I was happy to see Tom in the video. He works at the Safety Roadhouse and we met him when we were on our Artic Cat tour.




Cause-Effect Statements:
1. The city of Nome was established because of the "Three Lucky Swedes" who discovered gold in the Seward Peninsula in 1898, and as a result, word spread and droves of people in search of finding their own fortune came to Nome in the early 1900's, significantly increasing its population.

2. Because of the population boom in the early 1900's, Nome Natives were exposed to new diseases like diphtheria, which became an epidemic in 1924 and originated in the Native village of Holy Cross.

3. During WW II, The Lend-Lease Act of 1941 required an airstrip to be constructed in Nome called Marks Field which is still used today on a regular basis; Alaska Airlines flies in and out of Nome twice daily.